Neighbourhood Love: Riversdale

This post originally appeared on Tourism Saskatoon

I live in Nutana, which gives me the bonus of easy walking access to both downtown and Riversdale.  Both of these areas have seen some major growth in the last decade, with Riversdale shifting into an especially different vibe in recent years.

A few weeks ago, I met some friends at Odd Couple restaurant for dinner, followed by cocktails at The Hollows.  Before I went into Odd Couple, I took a moment to stand on the corner of 20th Street, gazing down the avenue at sunset.  Looking down the street at building facades from different decades, I could see more than 100 years of history all at once.

Early on, Riversdale was referred to as ‘Richville,’ though not because of money — it was named after one of the original settlers in the 1890s when the area was homesteaded.  The village of Riversdale was incorporated in 1905, but joined with Nutana and Saskatoon to become the City of Saskatoon in 1906.

Diversity has traditionally been a staple of Riversdale.  Immigration brought families from Britain, China, Germany, the Ukraine, and elsewhere.  Saskatoon’s Chinatown had originally been along 19th Street, where River Landing is now.  When the City acquired that land in the 30s, the Chinese were pushed west, across the tracks that separated downtown from Riversdale.

It’s hard to imagine that area being totally covered in tracks from the CN railway yards, but the Senator Sid Buckwold (freeway) Bridge was once a CN train bridge and there was limited pedestrian and vehicle access to Riversdale.  In 1910, a walkway was built so people go back and forth.  20th Street was the commercial thoroughfare, its proximity to the train station making Riversdale a bustling hub in the growing city for many years.

View of Riversdale circa 1950 – Saskatoon Public Library 

While, Magic Lantern Theatres restored the beautiful, historic Roxy Theatre as early as 2005, the demolition of The Barry Hotel in 2008 was one of the strongest catalysts for change in Riversdale.  The River Landing development and cheaper commercial rent brought more business to the area.  The Riversdale BID, new businesses, and new people moving to the neighbourhood to restore older homes created a tidal wave of change.  Riversdale is blossoming into a trendy, artsy hotspot.

I think a lot of this rests on its walkability.  Much like Broadway, cars and suburbia drove people away.  But the ability to wander down the street itself, window shop, and stop in somewhere for a drink, is what makes these streets so special.  It harkens back to another time, in early Saskatoon, when one would stroll down the boulevard.

I generally break up my trips to the area by day or night, but you could honestly spend an entire Saturday in Riversdale.

You’d start with crepes at Drift or a down home breakfast at Park Café or Hometown Diner.  Then, maybe you’d wander the aisles of the Farmer’s Market, picking up some fresh greens or homemade desserts for later.  This would perhaps be followed by some furniture or home décor shopping at stores like Anthology Home Collection and Garden Architecture.

By then, it’s lunchtime.  Can I tempt you with a lunch and some baking from Little Bird Patisserie & Café ?  Or, perhaps a sandwich from Underground Café or Leyda’s?  After lunch, grab a java at Collective Coffee, because there’s more shopping to be done.  Hit one of the sporting goods stores, like Al Anderson’sEscape Sports, or bike joints like Doug’s Spoke n’ Sport or Bike Universe.  But don’t be too long — that matinee at The Roxy Theatre is starting soon.  It’s a beautiful theatre, the walls covered with small balconies, windows and towers that give the impression of a little Spanish village.

Riversdale sculpture

Once the movie lets out, it’s time to have dinner.  There are tons of great restaurants, from The Hollows (the best restaurant in Saskatoon, in my humble opinion) and Primal Pasta to even Genesis over on 22nd Street.  But given the chance, I slip off to one of the two dumpling spots — Eastern Dumpling King or Jin Jin.  After dinner, you could check out an art installation at AKA Artist Run CentrePaved Arts or Void Gallery, or see a play at Gordon Tootoosis Nīkānīwin Theatre or La Troupe du Jour.  Or you could just hit 9 Mile to hang out and drink some local, craft beer.  And if you’re still going later in the evening, you can always slip down to one of the video game bars, like Bartari, for some late night gaming and chicken fingers.

The Sword and the Stone cocktail from Drift. 

Whew.  That was a lot of name-dropping and I barely scratched the surface.  Like I said, there’s a lot going on in Riversdale.

In fact, since the early 1900s, Riversdale has been a metaphor for Saskatoon itself.  A place of continual renewal.  A microcosm of community.  An early adopter of diversity.  Its businesses are an indicator of our innovative prairie spirit.  Riversdale is a neighbourhood that is still in transit.  It always will be.  Everything is.  And change can be a thrilling prospect.

Five Places For a Cocktail in Saskatoon

Spend some of your time in this prairie city enjoying a well-crafted drink at one of these Saskatoon bars, including one in The James Hotel and another in the Sheraton Cavalier Saskatoon Hotel

NOVEMBER 5, 2015 – BY DAN CLAPSONFive Places For a Cocktail in SaskatoonVista Lounge

Located inside the Sheraton Cavalier Saskatoon Hotel, just a short walk from the riverfront, this hotel bar is a local favourite when it comes to libations. The subdued lighting and plush upholstery throughout the room make this a great place for a date and a classic cocktail.

What to try: The Beetnik—beet infused vodka, apple liqueur, lemon juice, fresh dill.

Owned by Top Chef Canada season one winner Dale MacKay, Ayden offers contemporary cuisine with Asian influences in a slick setting. Ayden’s cocktail program is designed by general manager and mixologist Christopher Cho, who is also responsible for the cocktail creations at Calgary restaurant, Charbar.

What to try: The Fall Semester—dry sherry, dark rum, apricot liqueur, lemon juice, simple syrup and peach and Angostura bitters.

One of the establishments that has helped revitalize the Riversdale neighbourhood of Saskatoon, Goat is all about pairing its cocktails with community by hosting art exhibits, live music and more. This spot is open for lunch throughout the week, but the atmosphere is at its very best when the sun goes down.

What to try: The Black Buffalo—bourbon, Galliano, blackberries, basil, fresh lime juice, simple syrup.

This boutique hotel in the heart of downtown proves that a lobby bar isn’t just for its guests. This popular spot features a well-stocked bar and confident bartenders who can make anything from a classic Old Fashioned to signature hot, boozy drinks like the Chai Ziff, made with local distillery Lucky Bastard’s chai-infused vodka.

What to try: The Apricot Sour—Four Roses Bourbon, apricot brandy, lemon juice, egg white.

With an interior bursting with personality, from its retro decor to the bright orange wall behind the bar, Vista is a lively place to have a drink, even when it’s not packed with people. A house-infused rosemary garlic vodka adds a nice twist on the classic Caesar while the Smokey Robinson packs a big, booze-forward punch and arrives at your table complete with a piece of smoking cinnamon bark.

What to try: The Smokey Robinson—whiskey, Cinzano vermouth, housemade chocolate bitters.

Flat-out fun: Saskatoon ascends as it grows

Chefs, artists and entrepreneurs who fled their stodgy hometown for the bright lights of a big city are now returning to create a vibrant scene

DAVID STOBBE FOR THE GLOBE AND MAIL

Chefs and co-owners at Ayden restaurant in Saskatoon Dale MacKay and Nathan Guggenheimer (left to right) cut and prepare vegetables. David Stobbe for the Globe and Mail
Chefs and co-owners at Ayden Kitchen & Bar in Saskatoon, Dale MacKay, left, and Nathan Guggenheimer moved from Vancouver to help build a thriving dining scene.

Let me tell you, I just returned from a weekend for the ages.

It started out right with this Prohibition-era themed feast by some of the best chefs in Canada; everyone from Todd Perrin of St. John’s Mallard Cottage to Nick Nutting from Wolf in the Fog in Tofino, B.C. – a whole coast-to-coast thing. All the guests looked gorgeous, dressed to the nines in 1920s flapper style. I even wore a fringy dress and a scarf on my head. So much fun. There was live music, dancing, barrel-aged cocktails, incredible food, black jack tables, the works.

The next day I dragged myself out of bed too early to go walking around the waterfront, River Landing, it’s called – all new promenades, splash pads and even al fresco gym equipment; a multimillion dollar project with an architectural marvel of an art gallery taking shape on the horizon. The thing is, once I got going I couldn’t stop exploring this city. I hoofed around the neighbourhood of Riversdale where I sipped a chai latte from a tin mug in a hammock chair at a beach-themed café, and then ate the most delicious canelés pastries at a bakery that mills its own flours and bakes everything in a wood-burning oven. I swear I could have been in Bordeaux, France. And get this: I had afternoon snacks at a drive-through perogy joint – drive-thru perogies! Then for dinner I ate a truffle risotto made from seven-year cave-aged rice that sort of changed my entire worldview, and capped the night off with a Janet Jackson concert.

I have to tell you, Saskatoon is totally happening.

Rob Engel at Canada's only drive-thru perogy restaurant. The restaurant hand makes 8000 perogies a day. David Stobbe for the Globe and Mail
Rob Engel at Canada’s only drive-thru perogy restaurant. The restaurant makes, by hand, 8,000 perogies a day.

Friends, I’m not a fan of stories in which writers from away go in and point out what locals have long known – that the city they live in is changing for the better, a cheerful trend affecting spots across Canada and the United States, be it Winnipeg or Charleston, often based on an upsurge in natural resources, a lower cost of living or a hometown cheerleader who has rallied the troops. Or in the case of Saskatoon, all of the above.

“As soon as I could get out of there, I got out,” explains John Jackson, co-chef/owner at Calgary’s Charcut restaurant and native Saskatchewanian, whom I ran into at the 1920s-themed Prairie Feast, where he and co-chef/owner Connie DeSousa prepared party-sized rabbit donairs with a dill aioli infused with local pickle vodka. Jackson says Saskatchewan was boring for kids like him. “The music scene was pretty good but, like every other kid I knew, you’d go one step over to Calgary or two steps over to Vancouver. Back then, everybody left.” That trend is reversing.

Potash, oil and natural gas resources mean the economy has grown by nearly 70 per cent since 2000 and the median age is the country’s youngest at 34.5 years. Real estate is on the uptick along with the population, which has almost doubled in the past decade.

A pizza baked in the Capanna Pizzeria oven. David Stobbe for the Globe and Mail
A pizza baked in the Capanna Pizzeria oven.

“The food scene is what the really exciting thing is,” Jackson says. “[Chef Dale MacKay] saw it as an opportunity to go back home and do something big but with life balance. Being able to start a new business with your hometown supporting you is something special, and he saw the value in that.”

Dale MacKay is the co-owner of Ayden Kitchen & Bar, which won enRoute Magazine’s People’s Choice Award last year and also ranked eighth on the magazine’s list for the Top 10 Best New Restaurants. MacKay, who also won Top Chef Canada in 2011, persuaded a handful of his culinary crew (Nathan Guggenheimer, co-owner and chef, general manager Christopher Cho and head chef Jesse Zuber) to pack up their lives and move from Vancouver to Saskatchewan to open Ayden. To put this in perspective, I have trouble getting people to meet me for coffee.

MacKay and team are working on their latest restaurant, called the Little Grouse on the Prairie, which will open in the new year. He’s also on the board of Tourism Saskatoon, working to promote the city and its culinary scene, as he did with Prairie Feast, a sold-out, non-profit event that raised money to help improve community access to good food. MacKay has done something remarkable by bringing attention to an area that was already doing great things, but just needed a few more great things.

A street few of the changing and trendy Riversdale neighbourhood in Saskatoon. Riversdale is a changing and trendy neighbourhood in Saskatoon. David Stobbe for the Globe and Mail
Riversdale is a changing and trendy neighbourhood in Saskatoon, where eateries have been eager to reverse a previous trend of high vacancies.

To that end, let’s talk about Riversdale.

The Riversdale Business Improvement District was established in 1990 to address high vacancies and to return the district to what it once was: a centrally located commercial, retail and business corridor, which had since fallen on hard times. A decade ago property vacancies were as high as 42 per cent. Today they’re sitting between 10 to 12 per cent. Yet surprisingly, this isn’t a tale of gentrification or displacement, as the majority of infill development has occurred on vacant land, abandoned sites and condemned buildings. So the dozens of shiny new businesses I visited, many of which are less than a year old, are co-existing with long-time residents.

A couple of years ago there were 167 businesses here, and today there are almost 550. The area is buzzing. At Little Bird Patisserie & Café, the prettiest little shop around, they’ve got a lemon tart that’s all kinds of sweet and sassy, and at Thrive Juice Co., they spin local haskap berries into healthy smoothies. Capanna Pizzeria is known for its blistered thin crust pies such as the Piggy, with boar bacon, prosciutto, chorizo and arugula, and not far away is the Riversdale Delicatessen and Market, its sister restaurant, owned by the same chefs, and an award-winner for the city’s best sandwiches. You may choose to drop in for a maple bourbon smash at the Grazing Goat, a cocktail bar in a 1905 heritage building, or the 9 Mile Legacy Brewing, a so-called “nanobrewery,” for a tasty local sugar beet ale straight from the tap.

///please get this pic in/// Man Saleh owner of The Grazing Goat in Saskatoon holds a Clover Club cocktail drink at his restaurant. David Stobbe / stobbephoto.ca
Man Saleh, owner of The Grazing Goat in Saskatoon, holds a Clover Club cocktail at his restaurant.

This recent influx of restaurants and bars clustered in a small area allowed for the first-ever YXEatsfood festival. What’s more, Sept. 26 saw the second Nuit Blanche take place on a street where, not so long ago, few dared to venture after dark.

I saw Janet Jackson perform at the Sasktel Centre along with 14,000 other fans, who also may have shown up when Fleetwood Mac, Ed Sheeran, Shania Twain, Maroon 5 and, unfortunately, Nickelback came to town over the past year. But the biggest arts story out of little Saskatoon is the new Remai Modern Art Gallery, currently under construction and set to open in 2017. The architecture is stunning – it won a 2011 design award from Canadian Architect magazine before construction had even begun – and can be seen taking shape from the reimagined riverfront (River Landing), 14.5 hectares of parks and pathways, residential development, and yes, a farmers’ market.

“Remai Modern will be Canada’s first dedicated modern art museum,” Gregory Burke, executive director and CEO of the gallery, tells me. Its collection will include 405 Picasso linocuts (the most comprehensive collection of Picasso linocuts in the world), a gift from the Frank and Ellen Remai Foundation valued at well more than $20-million. Plus 23 Picasso sculptures – a gift from the Frederick Mulder Foundation – among countless other pieces and installations.

But getting back to the start of my weekend at the Prairie Feast, where chef MacKay was greeting his 200 guests in a 1920s-style tailcoat with two-toned wingtips, I asked him why he’d moved back to Saskatoon in the first place (this was before I’d had the chance to explore the city myself).

“It had been so long since I’d been able to spend any real time with my family,” he said, “and like all other chefs, I had worked my ass off. I’m an entrepreneur at heart and you’ve got to be smart. The way I see it I’d rather be successful in a small centre than have the huge overhead in a big centre.”

In Saskatoon, he can do what he loves and make a living. “It comes down to quality of life.”

The writer was a guest of Tourism Saskatoon. It did not review or approve the story.

Co-founder of 9 Mile Legacy Brewing Shawn Moen fills a bottle with his craft ale. David Stobbe for the Globe and Mail
Shawn Moen, co-founder of 9 Mile Legacy Brewing, fills a bottle with his craft ale for a customer.