Betty Ann Adam  •  Saskatoon StarPhoenix

A forklift amid an assortment of crates at the bottom of the Broadway Bridge is the basis of one of the new pieces of art being installed as part of the City of Saskatoon’s 2016 Placemaker Program. The partnership with the Downtown, Broadway, Sutherland and Riversdale Business Improvement Districts (BIDs) aims to engage audiences with temporary works in civic spaces, Betty Ann Adam writes.

An ordinary warehouse machine and anonymous crates that could contain anything and which are labelled “Coming Soon” create a moment of expectation akin to the anticipation that meets signs of progress and development, says artist Jason Gress of Nanaimo, B.C. “There’s a kind of utopia that happens when you see those signs go up,” announcing a new highrise or shopping mall, he said. “There’s this utopia until the shovels go in the ground. It’s all about the anticipation that our lives are going to be so much better if we live there or shop there. Nothing can go wrong in that space. There’s no cost overruns. There’s no noise from construction. There’s no disruption to traffic or competition for buying and all that kind of stuff. I was interested in that space where everything was still (potential), that newness and anticipation of development without all the problems and hassles of development.”

The installation will feature a changing assortment of signs over its two years on the boulevard between 19th Street and Fourth Avenue. They will relate to historical development in Saskatoon, such as bridges, significant architectural structures or civic changes like Nutana joining Saskatoon. There’ll also be speculative signs, such as, “Celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Remai Modern fall 2117,” and some that relate to current construction.

Saskatoon’s weather will play a role when Gress returns to the city in November to encase his piece in ice. Before he erects forms around the elements to hold the water as it freezes, he’ll install some new signs that are likely to remain obscured and mysterious until the thaw. He’ll answer questions about the installation at a Meet the Artist event in November. 

Written by: Thia James

Legendary actor Gordon Tootoosis recognized the need for artistic opportunities for indigenous youth in Saskatoon, and he discussed it with co-star Tantoo Cardinal on the set of Big Bear.

“That was a big gap, and a void that was recognized immediately,” says Curtis Peeteetuce, artistic director of the Saskatoon Native Theatre Company.

The roots of the Gordon Tootoosis Nīkānīwin Theatre grew from there.

Its location on 20^th Street West, adjacent to Avenue J, was chosen because the area’s demographics suit the theatre’s mandate and the audience it strives to serve in the community, Peeteetuce says.

“The local community is perfect for what we do. There’s a high indigenous population, and there are great stories to be told from this community.”

Peeteetuce sees the theatre growing, and it’s able to bring in more staff and performers. He acknowledges that growth may prompt a move.

Riversdale’s transformation, especially between Avenues A and C, is leading people to look further west, he says, adding that one of the current location’s benefits is that people are asking about the GTNT and “checking out” what it’s all about.

The GTNT was incorporated in 1999. Prior to moving close to the Avenue J area, it was located near Avenue C.

“The theatre company, although situated on 20^th Street, knew that our indigenous cultures were well connected, and so just by where we’re situated, it isn’t just we’re trying to reach out to the indigenous population on 20^th Street,” general manager Osemis Isbister-Bear says.

Although it’s based on 20th Street, the broader goal of the GTNT is to reach out to a wider audience in the city and province, Isbister-Bear adds. The location helps it remain as accessible as possible.

Isbister-Bear was involved with the theatre company, formerly known as the Saskatoon Native Theatre Company, as part of the first Circle of Voices in 1999. The long-running program allows youth to work with theatre professionals to hone their skills.

Now, he’s a part of the management team.

“For myself, I was inspired by the opportunity to connect with indigenous youth and my age category and to rally around our stories and to rally around empowering ourselves as indigenous youth,” he says.

The previous fall’s Circle of Voices was a sold-out, standing room-only event, which amazed Isbister-Bear. The audience came to hear the stories and the voices of youth.

“I think the company’s had a very big impact over the years in Saskatoon in telling our stories, but (also) in breaking down barriers for both indigenous and non-indigenous people in how we see ourselves in the greater context of the city of Saskatoon,” Isbister-Bear says.

That inclusiveness is something Gordon Tootoosis was all about, Peeteetuce says.

“At GTNT we could always base ourselves in Treaty Six culture, but we’re very inclusive of all the other languages and the cultures of Saskatchewan and across Canada as well. That’s a part of the legacy work for us as well, continuing Gordon’s pioneer work.”

For Peeteetuce, the lesson from Tootoosis that he’d like to impart on youth is his humility. Tootoosis acted in Hollywood, but when you sat down with him, he treated you like you were a good friend or a family member, he says.

Isbister-Bear met Tootoosis when he was in the Circle of Voices program, and had “sparkles” in his eyes when he did, he says with a laugh. Although Tootoosis was someone he saw on TV, it was like talking to an uncle, he adds.

“He had this very positive way about him where he left a very good feeling about being indigenous, and he left me with this lasting impression that at all times, believe in your people — and do the work in a way where you, too, show that you believe in your people.”

tjames@postmedia.com

Twitter.com/thiajames

Americans regularly cross the northern border to enjoy the diverse scene of Toronto, Montreal’s iconic delicacies and the exquisite sustainable seafood found in Vancouver. But, until recently, Saskatoon, Saskatchewan has remained relatively under the radar as Canada’s newest food destination. And though the city isn’t as easily accessed as those on Canada’s coasts, it is well worth the trip.

Located about six hours north of the Montana border, Saskatoon isn’t the capital of Saskatchewan but, with a population of about 300,000, it is the biggest city in the province. And though its status as a modern food city is a recent development, the region has a rich food history, beginning with the hunter-gatherer lifestyle of its original First Nations settlers and the agricultural tradition later established by 19th century Ukrainian immigrants. Today, grain farming, meat processing and dairy production still make up a majority of the local economy.

But it wasn’t until chef Dale MacKay returned to Saskatoon, his hometown, that all eyes turned toward the city affectionately dubbed “the Paris of the Prairies.” After training with Gordon Ramsay in London, serving as Daniel Boulud’s executive chef and becoming Top Chef Canada’s inaugural winner, MacKay had opened Ensemble, his first solo spot in Vancouver, but soon became disillusioned by the city’s exorbitant ($40,000 a month) rent and disproportionate quality of life. His gaze turned toward his native city, where he’d always detected potential for entrepreneurial growth.

MacKay convinced his right hand men— Jesse Zuber, Nathan Guggenheimer and Christopher Cho— to make the move with him and establish Grassroots Restaurant Group. In 2013, the team opened Ayden Kitchen & Bar, bringing “lake to plate” cuisine to downtown Saskatoon. Last year, Zuber took the helm as executive chef at the intimate Little Grouse on the Prairie, drawing on his experience at the Michelin-starred Guido in Alba, Italy. And just this year, Guggenheimer and Cho took the reigns as chef and beverage director at Sticks and Stones, where ramen and bao are served alongside some of the city’s best cocktails.

“I’ve never in my life seen a more rapidly developing food culture than in Saskatoon,” says Zuber. “When we first got here, the food culture was lacking and still under the influence of chain restaurants, but there was a big population looking for a little bit more. Young professionals and young families are looking to put down roots and go through the same experience they had in bigger cities.”

Saskatoon diners can now enjoy elevated cuisine without the lofty price tags and pretension—and the city’s affordability and room for creativity (not to mention actual physical space) continues to attract more like-minded entrepreneurs each year.

After living in Montreal and Vancouver, Bryn Rawlyk moved back to Saskatoon with his family to open The Night Oven, Saskatoon’s first bakery to use the native grains, grains that have fueled the city’s economy for so many years. He mills all his flour in-house and bakes his bread and pastries in a 9-foot wood-fired oven he built himself. He also just launched Venn Coffee Roasters, a Nordic-style coffeehouse with a speakeasy-style, back alley entrance.

Chefs Christie Peters and Kyle Michael cooked in renowned kitchens like Coi in San Francisco and De Kas in Amsterdam before returning to Saskatoon to open The Hollows, a fine dining restaurant set in a former Chinese restaurant. In addition to repurposing much of the former decor, they run a vintage shop upstairs, compost to near zero waste and donate broken glass to a local glass artist. At both The Hollows and their second concept, Primal, they grow much of their own produce in a basement garden, utilize Saskatchewan heritage grains and take whole animal butchery a step further by tanning hides and making soap from excess fat.

The chef duo’s restaurants are both in Riversdale, one of the city’s liveliest and fastest growing neighborhoods for dining, shopping and entertainment. Here, The Odd Couple serves Asian-Canadian cuisine to a full house for lunch and dinner, while the brand new Hometown Diner became a fast favorite for comforting classics this summer. Nine Mile Legacy, one of the city’s six local breweries, just opened its first tap room. And Drift Café, a self-described “prairie surf cafe” and multi-level community hub, is constantly expanding its sprawl, with a hammock grove, space for live music, private outdoor dining, gardens and a rooftop patio.

And things don’t seem to be slowing down anytime soon. At the start of this year, The Local Kitchen launched, becoming Saskatoon’s first food business incubator, offering three commissary kitchens for rent, workshops and classes, and support for small food businesses.

(C) Food & Wine 

By: Ciara Rickard

There’s something about Saskatoon that seems to call its citizens back home. Take chef Dale MacKay, co-owner of the two hottest restaurants in town (and winner of the first season of Top Chef Canada). He spent years honing his craft in kitchens around the world before he returned in 2012 to open Ayden, which is hugely popular (in part for its much-loved sausage platter), and, later, Little Grouse on the Prairie, which serves handmade tortellini that rivals some I once had in rural Italy that was made by local grandmas. MacKay and co-owner and co-chef Nathan Guggenheimer set the bar high. “We make friends with the farmers at the markets,” says Guggenheimer. “We’ll try something new with, say, artichokes, and if it works, we’ll get a whole bunch.” The two restaurants may be a couple of the brighter stars on the scene, but they’re just part of the stylish – and delicious – evolution that’s under way in the city.

A proper tour of Saskatoon must include the vibrant neighbourhood of Riversdale. It’s home to many of the city’s “bests” – coffee (Collective Coffee), fresh-pressed juice (Thrive Juice Co.) and a farmers’ market – and it has that aura of cool that often hangs over a newly gentrified ’hood. “It’s the most culturally diverse neighbourhood in the city,” says Carrie Catherine, a local singer-song-writer and my tour guide for the morning. Grab a cup of your preferred fuel and stroll by the historic Roxy Theatre, check out some local artwork at AKA Gallery and pick up a printed T-shirt at Hardpressed. 

Little Bird Patîsserie, at the back of housewares store Anthology in Riversdale, is as delightful as it sounds. The lemon tart is legendary, and the kouign amann – layers of croissant pastry baked with butter and sugar until it caramelizes – is insanely good. Be sure to peruse Anthology’s rustic-wood furnishings, bright cushions and clever curios on your way out. 

For a hit of nature, join the joggers, dog walkers and daydreamers on the scenic trails along the South Saskatchewan river, which runs through the centre of the city. Then hop on the Prairie Lily, a one-hour river cruise, and enjoy the greenery of the Meewasin Valley and views of the castle-like Bessborough hotel and the Remai Modern Art Gallery, an impressive glass behemoth set to open in 2017.

For their restaurant The Hollows, chefs/owners Christie Peters and Kyle Michael opted to keep the decor – like the traditional Chinese light shades and the neon “Golden Dragon” sign outside – from the Chinese resto that previously occupied the space. But they’ve certainly changed the food, with a focus on ingredients that they forage, butcher, brine, cure and smoke themselves. Highlights of the tasting menu include tempura dandelions and beet salad, and their Haskap Gin Fizz cocktail (haskap is a local berry) is frothily good.

At the edge of downtown, and within walking distance of pretty much everything, the James Hotel is all grey plushness and luxe comfort. In fact, the sheets at this boutique property are so soft that, after frequent inquiries from guests, they’re now sold at the front desk. Thankfully, there is a stunning view out over the river too – it will be your first reason to get out of bed in the morning.